First make the stock for the fish. Let the finely diced shallot, wafer-thin strips of carrot and wafer-thin celeriac strips (I took a 3 x 5 x 1 cm piece of celery) glaze in butter, making sure that the vegetables do not get any color. Deglaze with vodka, let the vodka boil down and pour in about half a liter of cider and the fish stock again. Bring to the boil briefly with the aim of evaporating the alcohol. Add a touch of salt and a little white pepper to the brew.
Divide the loach fillets into 4 portions, add a little salt to the nicer side and a little white pepper on top, it can be a little coarser. Put the fillets in the stock with the spiced, better side facing up and immediately reduce the heat. Let simmer for about 3 to 6 minutes (check consistency by pressing your finger).
When done, take the fillets out of the stock and keep them lukewarm (under no circumstances should they grumble in the oven at 100 degrees). Vigorously reduce the fish stock, otherwise it will get watery and pour 200 ml of cream on top, season with salt and pepper, reduce a little and assemble with ice-cold butter.
At the same time, completely cut the leek into individual leaves and cut into 8 mm thick rings. Simmer with a little water and salt for about 8 minutes, swirling every now and then. Put a small amount of the rest of the cream on the leek.
In the middle of the preheated plate, place a bed of leeks and the fillets on top. Garnish with the fish sauce and the carrots and celery strips.
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