by Editorial Staff
A typical Hungarian recipe begins with “melt the pork fat” and ends with “and add paprika.” Further – the quote: “Her pungent taste and bright red color have created a dangerous reputation for her, although the prejudice that many have towards her is groundless. Real good paprika is neither too hot nor harmful at all. People with healthy digestion who are not dieting should not be afraid of Hungarian dishes, even if they are bright red. ” This was said by Karoi Gundel, the classic and founder of Hungarian cuisine.
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Országház utca 2, www.alabardos.hu
Main menu: 1 900 – 6 500 HUF
The restaurant is hiding in a medieval building opposite the Matthias Church and is open in the evenings. “Alabardos” is a halberdier. In the interior, there are guns, shields, those very halberds, and other romantic paraphernalia. The menu includes dishes of European and Hungarian cuisine, including catfish from the Tisza River. Hungarian curd dumplings and fish sauce are served with catfish fillets fried in a pan.
Kígyó utca 4-6, www.apostoloketterem.hu
Main menu: 3 190 – 6 590 HUF
“Apostolok” are “apostles”, however, the kitchen and interiors are far from evangelical asceticism. The cuisine is international, and the must-have fried duck liver in Budapest is on the menu next to shrimp tails in tomato and oven-baked camembert with cranberries and fried mushrooms and cheese. In the hall there are carved wooden armchairs with high backs, stained-glass windows in the windows; the visitor feels either in the temple, or in the royal chambers, or in the palace of the Hungarian tycoon.
Vigadó tér 3, www.dunacorso.hu
Main menu: 4 100 – 5 900 HUF
The restaurant is located in the best place for admiring the Danube and the Royal Palace in the evening – on the waterfront, at the corner of Place Vigado, where the Little Bronze Princess sits on the fence. In the evenings, musicians play on the open terrace, in their own way, with a clear Hungarian accent, retelling the world classics.
Október 6.utca 22, www.reteshaz.com
Main menu: 3 190 – 6 990 HUF
The First Pest Strudel Coffee House is another place in Budapest where it is enough to step over the threshold to get into the “Belle Epoque”. Surprisingly, the restaurant has been open since 2007. It looks like it was Empress Elizabeth who ran here from the palace ceremonies to have a snack with poppy strudel.
In Hungarian, “strudel” is called “retesh”, and it differs from its Viennese counterpart as a merry operetta from a telephone ringtone: there are strudels with apples, cherries, cottage cheese, apricots, meat, fish, cabbage …. “Strudel stuffed with apricots and cottage cheese with Tokaj wine and vanilla sauce” – sounds like? The menu of this restaurant can be read like a poem: “Crispy duck leg with champagne steamed red cabbage and prunes on strudel with crushed onion potatoes.” Or “Fried trout with almonds and aromatic herbs under wine Chardonnay sauce on crumbly potatoes with parsley”.
Bonus: a street name that’s easy to remember. This is rare in Budapest.
Gundel Károly út 4, www.gundel.hu
Main menu: 9 990 – 55 990 HUF
The legendary enterprise of the great Karoy Gundel. It is from this restaurant that high Hungarian cuisine began a hundred years ago; it was Gundel who combined the folk traditions of paprikash and goulash with the requirements of European fashion. This is what they say in the Gundel restaurant.
Now it looks more and more like a museum, struggling to maintain its former luxury, but it is a museum with an extremely rich collection: there are a dozen of goose liver dishes alone. Pancakes a la Gundel, stuffed with a mixture of grated nuts, raisins, lemon zest, cinnamon, and rum, and poured with chocolate-rum sauce (except for the restaurant, they are prepared in the confectionery of the same name, where prices are slightly lower), gained special fame. Look for “Gundel” behind Heroes’ Square, at the entrance to the zoo.
Dohány utca 50, www.ladocafe.hu
Main menu: 3 290 – 4 890 HUF
If in the morning – then breakfast in Hungarian: ham, sausage, butter, hard eggs, cheese, gherkins. If during the day – then the right goulash in the pot, for the right price. In the evening – jazz concerts.
Március 15. tér 7, http://www.matyaspince.eu
Main menu: 3 300 – 10 990 HUF
A restaurant called Matthias Cellar opened back in Austro-Hungarian times and was named after the owner, not the king, as all tourists now think. The mistake is understandable and forgivable: it was the era of King Matthias, the edge of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, that was taken as the basis for the current design of the halls. Gypsy music, folklore programs, noisy and reckless Christmas holidays – it’s all here. The restaurant is huge, it has several rooms. And it’s time to remember that “hall” in Hungarian is terem. Terem is the right word for this restaurant. Gypsies play in the evenings. They play great. But no bears.
Dózsa György út 72, www.paprikavendeglo.hu
Main menu: 2 150 – 4 730 HUF
A restaurant for tourists. “Paprika” allows you to combine a walk in the Varoshliget park or taking a bath in the Széchenyi bath with lunch in accordance with national traditions. The interior is exaggerated ethnographic, but this should not scare you away: they cook well indeed. It is worth ordering the spicy halaszlé fish soup and the turkey stew with rice.
Ráday utca 16, www.paprikajancsietterem.hu
Main menu: 1 950 – 7 980 HUF
Although the restaurant’s menu contains both Italian pasta and caprese salad, it is better to take something Hungarian: say, lecho with goose liver or Jokai bableves bean soup; referring to the famous writer Mor Yokai. Business cannot do without bundles of dried paprika on the walls, but, fortunately, the institution does not overdo it with national flavor. In summer it is better to take a seat on the terrace; this whole street is a continuous line of restaurants and cafes.
Mosonyi utca 3, www.rosenstein.hu
Main menu: 2 800 – 6 800 HUF
The menu is based on traditional Budapest cuisine – that is, Hungarian and Jewish. Poultry and game dishes are good here, but the owners, the Rosenstein family, advise you to try goose liver by all means: it is served hot and cold, with rice and peas, with onions or in Tokay wine sauce. The restaurant is located a little off the tourist routes, near the Eastern Station.
Piarista utca 2, www.100evesetterem.hu
Main menu: 2 190 – 8 490 HUF
Százéves means Centenary, but this restaurant celebrated its centenary even before World War II. The restaurant, however, is worth visiting if only for the sake of its building: it is located in one of the few private houses of the 18th century that survived the floods on March 15, 1838 (a plate on the facade marks the water level on that day). The menu offers a decent selection of fish items, including catfish paprikash and Balaton pike-perch fillets.
Paulay Ede utca 7, pest.vakvarju.com
Main menu: 2 190 – 4 190 HUF
The restaurant called “The Blind Crow”, “Vakvaryu” is located in the very center, not far from the Basilica of St. Stephen, on a street parallel to Andrassy Avenue. But the street is small, the name is unpronounceable, and therefore there will always be empty seats in the restaurant. He specializes in the national cuisine. A good place to taste some of the favorite dishes of the population.
Ráday utca 15, www.vorospk.hu
Main menu: 1 990 – 4 990 HUF
The cuisine in the restaurant “Red Stagecoach” is traditional, national, which is natural, because it is named after the novel by Gyula Crude – “Hungarian Marcel Proust”. A suitable place to calmly, without fuss and strict etiquette, eat a full Hungarian lunch: goulash soup, Viennese schnitzel, homemade noodles fried with cottage cheese, and a super-calorie Shimla dumpling for dessert. And, of course, you cannot ignore the goose liver, which appears in at least seven dishes. Quite often, the restaurant organizes thematic dinners dedicated to, for example, goose dishes or wines from some regions of Hungary.
Október 6. u. 16-18, urbanbetyar.com
Main menu: 3890 – 19,990 HUF
First, the location. A street with an understandable name, which is a rarity in Budapest, runs right between St. Stephen’s Square, where the basilica is, and the Danube embankment, where the Chain Bridge is. At the same time – slightly away from the main tourist trails. Secondly, the name. Urban Betyár – “City robber”, in the sense – “noble robber”, a kind of Hungarian Robin Hood. Third, the collection. This is not only a restaurant, it is a museum. Items of peasant life of old Hungary are exhibited here – and the visitor does not always at first glance manage to guess how and for what these cunning items were used.
And it will not be possible to determine the style of interior decoration even from the second: there is such a cunning fusion of modernity, bourgeois eclecticism of the 19th century, and rural folk traditions that any company will be provided with a topic for a table conversation from appetizer to dessert. The menu matches classic Hungarian goulash, that long-horned gray cow in the form of a steak, for dessert – a Shimla dumpling, wine from the main Hungarian wineries.
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